Before I started sewing my own garments, I was never a fan of button-up shirts on me. I've always been busty and in order for there to be no gaping at the bust, I always needed to size up and then the fit was all wrong at the shoulders. Of course, sewing my own clothes means I could remedy that and make myself a few nice shirts.
For my second attempt at a shirt, I chose to use the Itch-to-Stitch Bonn shirt pattern.
The Bonn hasn't yet been updated in Itch-to-Stitch's full size range - it goes from a 30 1/8" to a 49" bust and from a 33 1/4" to a 48" hip. My measurements put me at the top of the size range. I sewed a size 18 at the bust, grading out to a 20 for the waist and hips. Like many of her patterns, the Bonn is available in five different cup sizes: A, B, C, D and DD. I used the D cup. (My current measurements are 41" high bust, 45" full bust, 39" waist and 47.5" hips.)
There are a variety of different sleeve options: short (like the one I made), long, 3/4 and flared. There is also a dress option which is really cute.
The pattern features a V neck with mandarin collar which I really like and find suits me nicely. I love that it allows for my favourite necklace to really shine.
Instructions and Construction:
As with all Itch-to-Stitch patterns, the instructions are impeccable. She includes every step a novice would need and makes no assumption in terms of the skill level of the maker. For example, if you should stay stitch or under stitch, she includes those steps as well.
I did have one little problem when constructing my shirt: my iron burned the interfacing on the collar so I had to cut a new one. But that obviously has nothing to do with the instructions and more to do with me not realizing how hot my iron was at the time.
The other difficulties I had were mostly due to the fabric I chose for my Bonn. This is a Japanese Tencel Cotton from Blackbird Fabrics (sadly no longer available). And although it is a dream to wear - so light and breezy, it was a bit of a challenge to sew with. The "crinkly" nature of the fabric meant I needed to be careful with the pressing. You don't want to press this kind of fabric really flat because after you wash it, you'll need to press it very flat every time you want to wear it. I learned that the hard way when I made a top with crinkle rayon and found that it didn't fit me unless I ironed every last wrinkle in the fabric!
Would I make this again?
Yes, I definitely would. I'm tempted to make the dress next time.
Also, as you can see from the pictures, I really should have done a narrow shoulder adjustment. I keep forgetting that adjustment. Another small tweak I will make if I make the shirt again would be to shorten it by a couple of inches. The Itch-to-Stich patterns are designed for 5' 6" bodies and I'm 5' 4". I find my shirt a bit too long and I'm not crazy about the proportions on my body. I could wear it tucked in, but there is so much length there, it would be a pain.
Buttons? You made button holes? Amazing!! They scare me. You did a great job on this. I love that fabric!ReplyDelete
I bought this pattern awhile ago to make the dress. Some day I will so I'll keep your comments!ReplyDelete